Tips for a smooth running fridge!
Updated: Jul 29, 2020
Refrigerator common faults and how to repair them
FRIDGE DOES NOT STOP RUNNING
If a fridge cannot cool down properly it will run continuously
COMMON CAUSES AND FAULTS
1. The door of the fridge/refrigerator is left open or open and closed constantly
2. The condenser coils might need so thorough cleaning
3. The seals are damaged or worn due to wear and tear
4. There is a blockage and the cold air is not circulating
Temperature of the kitchen how full it is with food and how frequently it is opened are all reasons for the fridge/refrigerator to run .
See YOUTUBE video below for a reference:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TwKm_hevpZw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
1. If the light in the fridge is on and is running at the same time you will need to check that there are no blockages between the fridge and the freezer units, this could be something in your fridge such as milk or any other food item.
2. If the fridge is running hard and does not stop running the coolant/ refrigerant could be low this refrigerant is what brings the gas to the low temperature needed to run the fridge, it is best to in an expert to solve this issue.
3. There are various parts which could also be causing a problem these parts in the system are the DEFROST HEATER, the DEFROST TIMER and the DEFROST TERMINATOR.
If you would like to attempt this type of repair try the below steps:
1. CHECK IF FRIDGE/FREEZER IS COOLING, if there is frosting or ice on the freezer and the temperature control knob is turned to low then the problem is most likely the thermostat and that the REFRIGERANT/COOLANT is not the problem.
2. TURN THE TEMP KNOB OR BUTTON or switch to up and down or max to min if the switch having no effect on the fridge then it might just be the switch. You also may need to check the defrost timers and heating elements you will need to make sure these are working correctly.
3. INSPECT THE CONDENSER COILS , these are generally situated behind the plate on the bottom of the refrigerator/fridge, sometimes they are at the back of the unit. The coils aid in the dispersion of heat from the inside of your unit to the outside of the unit with fans, if there is grime and dirt on the coils they will not operate efficiently and thereby will not extract heat from the unit, these should be SERVICED monitored and cleaned regularly.
4. THE DRAIN TUBE MAY BE BLOCKED or have a blockage, you will find the DRAINAGE TUBE beneath the evaporator coils which leaks/drops into a PAN beneath, when the fridge is defrosting/refrigerator is defrosting water should drip into the PAN, SO CHECK FOR ANY BLOCKAGES.
5. IF YOU CANNOT GET THE APPLIANCE REPAIRED OR NEED TO USE IT URGENTLY, you can utilise a heating device, such as a hair dryer to heat up the cooling coils on the freezer, if there is too much moisture on the cooling coils a lot of frost and ice can build up, this will affect the working of the coils. (Be careful not to shock yourself when using implements such as hair driers).
FRIDGE OR REFRIGERATOR TOO COLD OR NOT COLD ENOUGH
30 to 40 F degrees in the fridge unit and 0-5 F degrees in the freezer unit. If the TEMPERATURE ONTROL UNIT, Knob or switch is set to low but your fridge is still too cold then you probably have a problem with your TEMPERATURE SENSOR, or the SWITCH itself. Checking the temperature is easy you can use a REFRIGERATOR thermometer for this.
Please see how to replace the SENSOR in the video below:
<iframe width="609" height="348" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a1Z_oOMFXGk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
If you are not getting any cooling in the unit the most common and will be the electrical controls and generally is not the coolant/refrigerant. The hermetic sealed system rarely gives problems, you also may have fault components which might need to be checked, such as the CONDENSER COILS, SEALS around the doors or a damaged TEMP CONTROL
1. THE CONTROL/ SWITCH, make sure that the switch is turned to the right temperature and check that the temperature is correct
2. MAKE SURE THE FAN IS SPINNING BY LISTENING. When this is happening and you can hear a noise then you can be sure that the DEFROST TIMER and CONTROL are both set to cool.
3. CHECK COMPRESSOR FAN BY LISTENING this helps you find the compressor which most likely is on the bottom of the refrigerator/fridge, the freezer fan and compressor fan should work in unison or at the same time, if the compressor is not working or if the fans (either one) is not working correctly there will be almost no cooling.
REFRIGERATOR COMPLETELY OFF
1. POWER. Make sure there is no load shedding, make sure mains and power is on, check cabling to the unit from power outlet and check the plug.
2. CHECK SETTINGS. Check the switch is set to the correct temperature.
RATTLING, SMELLING OR LEAKING FRIDGES
If your appliance is exuding a not so odor or smell, you should probably clean it, take out all the food, drawers and shelving.
Clean all the necessary parts with a good anti bacterial cleaning agent then give it a good scrubbing with baking soda mixed with a cup of warm water.
The bottom tray can also become a cesspool, clean that too and make sure you put some charcoal on plates, this will absorb a lot of the odor!
NOT SO GOOD VIBRATIONS
Condenser coils, compressor tubes can all cause rattling also check the levels and balance the feet of the unit, generally these are adjustable as you find at restaurant tables etc.
DOORS ON FRIDGE DO NOT SEAL
One of the most common problems is a faulty door seal or damaged hinge. Sometimes you can simply lube up the hinge.
<iframe width="609" height="348" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZN-iINfkXs0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
You also might have a fault GASKET if not the SEAL or HINGE
1. TAKE OFF THE COVERINGS THAT SEAL THE HINGES. Use wrench or nut driver
2. LEVEL. Use a level to get the door balanced and level and then screw the screws back in.
3. RETESTING OF SEAL. On the top and down the sides you will find the gasket loosen bolts and screws and release the GASKET
4. RESET NEW GASKET. Slide it under the holding strip remember to to not fully fasten the screws
5. DO THE SAME. Repeat the process on the bottom or other side of the refrigerator/fridge.
LIGHT IS NOT SWITCHING OFF
IF your refrigerator light stays on it will affect the running of the fridge due to the heat emitted from the bulb if you are suspicious that this is the issue, which is the case as you will not and cannot look through solid objects, you should see the light start to dim as you close the door, another option is to touch the bulb with your fingers once the fridge has been closed for a while. This is generally the DOOR SWITCH. This can easily be replaced.
THE FREEZER DOES NOT WANT TO DEFROST
The modern REFrIGERATOR/ FRIDGE defrosts on its own there are 3 main parts that we need to be aware of here, the DEFROST HEATER, the DEFROST TIMER and the DEFROST TERMINATOR.
Your fridge should be automatically defrosting on its own every 20 minutes for every 6 to 8 hours. The frosting and ice normally accumulates on the freezers walls if the icing remains it will eventually choke the air, often you can manually adjust the settings on the DEFROST TIMER, it is a tiny black box and can be found almost anywhere on the unit but most often you will find it on the top of the veggie sector, push it until you hear the heating elements turned on, if this helps then the DEFROST TIMER is faulty failing this you should check the HEATER or TERMINATOR.
See below video for assistance with the DEFROST HEATER
<iframe width="498" height="286" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xJL2duVNYKA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>